Watches and Wonders Geneva: New Watch Releases for 2026

Few watch designs can claim such instant recognisability as the Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas. And no horological credentials are needed to understand its appeal, which springs from two of its most famous hallmarks – the snake (a symbol of transformation, power and rebirth) and the coiled Tubogas bracelet, made via an ancient technique that wraps precious metal strips around a core which is then removed to leave a hollow, flexible bracelet. This newest addition to the Serpenti line-up carries forward another of Bvlgari’s boldest hallmarks – the union of gold and steel. The signature coil is this time punctuated by studs, adding an industrial sharpness to the sinuous timepiece, which also sees 38 brilliant-cut diamonds adorn its 35mm case and mother-of-pearl dial. An unexpected yet perfect clash of references.

Relative to maisons spanning centuries, Hublot is comparatively young. Age is but a number, though, and the watch world’s wunderkind has racked up an impressive tally of showstopping timepieces since it was established in 1980. Its pièce de résistance? It has to be the Big Bang. In 2010, the house marked a milestone when it introduced the Big Bang Unico – its very first in-house chronograph. In 2026, a year on from the Big Bang's 20th anniversary, that very movement takes centre stage in the new Big Bang Reloaded. An evolution of the openworked Big Bang Unico, it plays with colour and contrast to amplify the chronograph’s construction, with the dial-side column wheel and integrated flyback more visible than ever. The result is a bolder, sportier piece with architectural depth – and in five different references, no less.

The result of more than 11,000 hours of research and development, five newly developed patents and consisting of 686 components, Chopard’s new L.U.C Grand Strike is the most complex watch ever created in the Swiss maison’s history. Yet the stats don’t quite do it justice. Seeing (and hearing) is believing with the Grand Strike. The dial-less display shows off the chiming timepiece to its full extent, allowing a glimpse of the grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie and minute repeater with proprietary sapphire crystal gongs.

Shoot for the stars? Naturally. But Van Cleef & Arpels doesn’t stop there. Since 1929, the French maison has set its sights on capturing the mystery and magic of the moon. A standout in the brand’s 2026 Watches and Wonders line-up is the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune, which displays both a moonphase complication and, on its dial, a rotating disc depicting a golden guilloché sun that, over the course of a day, gradually gives way to a mother-of-pearl moon framed by acrylic stars.

Can you dial something down without losing impact? In the case of the Panerai Luminor, the answer is yes. For this year’s trade show, the Italian brand used the cult timepiece’s ’60s case and slimmed down its 47mm dimensions to 44mm for the first time. The iconic sandwich dial, luminous numerals and trademarked crown-protective design are present and correct, but the new models – the tobacco-coloured PAM01731 and the matte-blue Luminor Destro PAM01732 – look contemporary.